Some of the most delicious cuts of meat are those that require braising. These are normally the hard working muscles like shanks, tails and necks. For many home raised animals or wild fare, braising is also a great technique that produces tender flavoursome meat, a favourite in my home kitchen. Each spring we get a handful of goslings, one of which we always name Ryan.
They’re hungry lawnmowers that feed on the grass over summer, and by the time Autumn arrives, the grass is depleted and the geese are fat. It’s a practical solution to keeping the lawns down that ends up as a culinary treat. We dispatch the birds and enjoy them over winter. We know how the animal was raised, we know what it fed on and we know they had good lives. It’s a system deeply embedded in peasant culture and has kept the provincial folk of countries like France, Portugal, Italy and Spain fed for thousands of years. I sometimes make a salad similar to this with braised wild rabbit or duck.