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Hello Marimekko

Art

Earlier in the month, we set off to preview Bendigo Art Gallery’s latest blockbuster exhibition: ‘Marimekko Design Icon 1951-2018‘.

Even if you don’t know the name, you will most certainly have encountered Marimekko’s timeless prints.

As this brilliant exhibition reveals, there’s so much more to the Finnish fashion-and-homewares house than its unforgettable patterns – from a pioneering and inspiring founder, to a utopian concept village for staff (!), and a legacy of releasing women from the confines of corsets/limited opportunities.

12th March, 2018

Marimekko Design Icon 1951-2018‘ is on at Bendigo Art Gallery until June 11th. Photo – Amelia Stanwix for The Design Files.

Leanne Fitzgibbon, senior curator at Bendigo Art Gallery, with Harry Kivilinna, a curator from Helskini’s Design Museum. The pair first began working towards this show in 2013. Photo – Amelia Stanwix for The Design Files.

A cavalcade of Marimekko dresses on display. Photo – Amelia Stanwix for The Design Files.

The Finnish house has produced over 3,000 different patterns in 20,000 colourways. Photo – Amelia Stanwix for The Design Files.

Marimekko’s playfully bright patterns and easy-wearing garments made a splash Down Under from the 1960s onwards. Photo – Amelia Stanwix for The Design Files.

The exhibition is displayed thematically, allowing the timelessness of the Marimekko designs to shine through. Photo – Amelia Stanwix for The Design Files.

Marimekko hand-printed textiles up until 1973! Photo – Amelia Stanwix for The Design Files.

The exhibition features more than 200 objects including 60 outfits, swathes of original fabrics, homewares, sketches, a vast array of accessories and archival materials. ‘It really is a very special opportunity to see these iconic designs in the flesh,’ welcomes Leanne. Photo – Amelia Stanwix for The Design Files.

The Marimekko look captures the optimism and spirit of the 1960s era. ‘I know that these designs will be familiar to many, and that there will be a nostalgic connection,’ adds Leanne. Photo – Amelia Stanwix for The Design Files.

‘Maija Isola was actually a painter more than a textile designer, which is clear when you view her work,’ explains curator Leanne. ‘I do admire her ‘Unikko’ pattern, it’s a terrific story in terms of it being a ‘rebel flower’ – she created a whole collection based around floral motifs even though the founder Armi explicitly said that they would never produce flower patterns. It must have been quite a conversation at the time… but Unikko is now one of Marimekko’s most recognisable designs internationally.’ Photo – Amelia Stanwix for The Design Files.

Elle Murrell
Monday 12th March 2018

‘The colours and designs are so vibrant and breathtaking; it’s truly a revolution in fabric.’ – Leanne Fitzgibbon, senior curator at Bendigo Art Gallery.

It all started with the Mary Dress. Not a Marie Antoinette gown, Crown Princess of Denmark twin-set, nor one of Mary-Kate’s lace sheaths, but a Mary ‘mekko’ – the Finnish name for a peasant woman’s simple dress.

In the aftermath of World War II devastation, Viljo Ratia acquired the small Finnish textile-printing company Printex, which focused on oilcloth production. He asked his wife Armi, a textile-design graduate from Helsinki’s Central School of Industrial Art, to develop some printed patterns. Armi invited her classmate Maija Isola, and later fashion designer Riitta Immonen to help in her mission to make vibrant dresses for everyday women. The brightly patterned and liberatingly free-fitting garments they created for a debut show, at a Helskini restaurant in 1951, were a hit. Marimekko was born.

The visionary businesswoman went on to innovate and expand, recruiting a line-up of talented print designers, courting editors and catching the eye of icons – US first lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, artist Georgia O’Keeffe, and activist Jane Jacobs, to name but a few!

Having now produced over 3,000 different patterns in 20,000 colourways and with 160 stores around the globe, Marimekko today spans furnishing and interior fabrics, women’s ready-to-wear, menswear, and some seriously covetable homewares (good luck leaving Bendigo Art Gallery’s gift shop without an ‘Oiva’ teapot).

In Finnish ‘fashion’, the brand prides itself on a strong connection to the environment, through both inspiration and work practices, as well as a real commitment to the empowerment of women – 90 percent of Marimekko employees are women, including at the management tiers, as Marimekko president  Tiina Alahuhta-Kasko revealed upon opening ‘Marimekko Design Icon 1951-2018’.

A youthful and passionate chief executive, Tiina also charted Marimekko’s long history in Australia. Turns out, Australians have been sporting Marimekko prints since the 1960s, and the brand’s flagship store in Sydney followed only New York and Tokyo as the earliest international outlets.

The exhibition in Bendigo is an exclusive collection, transported all the way from Helsinki’s Design Museum. ‘It’s quite an extensive exhibition, with a huge number of fabrics suspended throughout, plus more than 60 garments alongside archival material that helps in telling the story of Marimekko and its designers,’ details Leanne Fitzgibbon, senior curator at Bendigo Art Gallery.

Visiting from Design Museum, Harry Kivilinna worked with the gallery on curating and selecting the exhibition material. Having conducted extensive research on the company, he’s quite the guru and fittingly dons Marimekko’s ‘Jokapoika’ (‘every boy’) shirt as his uniform.

So, what’s Harry’s verdict on the immersive exhibition they’ve woven together? ‘I think the last room with ‘Unikko’ (poppy pattern) is definitely the best section, and also the big hall in the middle with a cavalcade of dresses… and Maija Isola’s fabrics are stunning. The archive material and press clips are quite interesting to see too,’ he entices. We’re just as hard-pressed to name one highlight!

‘Everyone who has seen the exhibition so far has been overwhelmed and delighted with the vibrancy of the designs; the colours are so uplifting,’ adds Leanne. ‘Marimekko really does give a sense of joy. It is amazing how something visual can invoke such an emotional response.’

Marimekko Design Icon 1951-2018
March 2nd – June 11
Bendigo Art Gallery
42 View Street
Bendigo VIC

The exhibition coincides with a wonderful program of events including a Swinging 60s Party, monthly Curator’s Talks with Leanne Fitzgibbons, Marimekko: Design Icon Auslan Tour, and DIY Design: Family Fun Day. Plus our fave Beci Orpin will be hosting the Gallery’s Art & Tea (free) on March 21st.

If you’re staying overnight, we’d recommend the Quest Schaller Hotel Bendigo (championing inventive Melbourne artist Mark Schaller), which hosted us as a guest of Bendigo Tourism during our visit.

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The Design Files acknowledge the Traditional Custodians of the lands on which we work, the Wurundjeri people of the Kulin Nation. We pay our respects to Elders past and present.

First Nations artists, designers, makers, and creative business owners are encouraged to submit their projects for coverage on The Design Files. Please email bea@thedesignfiles.net