The Design Files Daily

Jewellery Design

Interview – Natalia Milosz-Piekarska

Jeweller Natalia Milosz-Piekarska at work in her Melbourne studio.  Photo – Lucy Feagins

Details from the studio of jeweller Natalia Milosz-Piekarska.  Photos – Lucy Feagins

NEW things!  The Carnival Series by Natalia Milosz-Piekarska for E.g.etal

It’s been a while since I interviewed a jewellery designer,  but very glad to be back in jewellery-land today with incredibly talented local designer / maker Natalia Milosz-Piekarska!

Natalia’s work is so unique and for this reason kind of hard to describe.  For one thing, she has an incredible knack of disguising the materials she uses in her work.  Often combining handcarved timber and resin in irregular organic shapes, the pieces are incredibly lightweight, and once textured and painted in her signature vibrant hues, it’s not entirely clear exactly which materials have been used, or indeed where one material ends and the other starts.  It gives the works a real sense of other-worldliness, as familiar materials are re-worked into completely new unfamiliar forms.

Another unique characteristic of Natalia’s work is that many of the pieces, particularly the 3Dimensional timber / resin ones (see the brooches and rings below) feel almost like little living creatures!  Perhaps of the underwater or insect variety?  When visiting Natalia in her studio last week and seeing her work up close in person, so many of them really reminded me of characters from a Miyazaki animated film -Amazing! (As I rambled on and mentioned this uncanny resemblance, thankfully Natalia took it as a compliment, saying that’s exactly the look she was going for!  Phew!  I talk too much).

Last year Natalia was awarded the British Council ‘Realise Your Dream’ and Ian Potter Cultural Trust travel grants – both of which assisted her in undertaking a self initiated internship with renowned UK fashion/costume jeweller Scott Wilson in London!  Natalia researched and approached Scott directly, and found herself working for him for 6 months fulltime – an amazing opportunity which has given her an incredible wealth of experience and inspiration for her own practise upon returning to Melbourne.

Natalia is now back in a busy rhythm of designing and making new wearable works for her local stockists, and she also works one day a week lecturing at RMIT.  When not designing, making or lecturing, Natalia can also be found working at Pieces of Eight, which of course stocks her own jewellery pieces and the work of so many other wonderful local makers.

DO visit Natalia’s blog here!  You can buy her work at the very best local jewellery galleries - e.g.etal and Pieces of Eight in Melbourne, Metalab and Studio 20 / 17 in Sydney and many more stockists listed on her blog.

Massive thanks to Natalia for her time sharing her story with us today.  She’s offered up so much wisdom and generous advice for budding independent designers and makers – thankyou Natalia!

Jeweller Natalia Milosz-Piekarska in her Melbourne studio.  Photo – Lucy Feagins

Tell us a little bit about your background – What did you study and what path led you to what you’re doing now?

I initially studied Design/Visual Communication at Monash, and in my final year I had the opportunity to take up a gold and silversmithing class as an elective. I was actually really terrible at it, and when I graduated it wasn’t exactly at the forefront of my mind, though neither was a career as a graphic designer. So instead I collected a few stamps on the passport and travelled for three years.

It was upon my return to Melbourne, and after being hugely inspired by the contemporary jewellery scene both locally and abroad, that persuaded me to give gold and silversmithing another go. I did some short courses to get my basic skills up, before finally applying for RMIT’s Gold and Silversmithing degree. I studied for four years, and have been out in the real world making work almost full-time ever since. When I’m not in the studio you can find me teaching at RMIT one day a week or working at Pieces of Eight.

Stackable rings by Natalia Milosz-Piekarska for Pieces of Eight

You’ve recently returned back to Melbourne after a stint in London where you completed a studio internship with renowned fashion/costume jeweller Scott Wilson. What did you learn and take away from this experience?

It was an intensely exciting and challenging time! Apart from having followed and admired Scott Wilson’s practice for some time, one of the reasons I wanted to work for him was due to how different our aesthetics and practices are. Scott’s work, more often than not, is about beautiful clean lines, precision, angles and attention to detail. He’s also has a multifaceted practice where he produces his own collections, as well as collaborating with fashion designers and creating one off amazing costume pieces for musicians and performers. It was great working with someone who has successfully managed to straddle the worlds of art, design and fashion without compromising quality and craftsmanship. While working with Scott I picked up a whole bag of new technical skills that I otherwise wouldn’t normally apply to my organic, free form work, and I also gained a much greater understanding of how diverse and collaborative the world of a contemporary jeweller can be.

Last year you were awarded both the British Council ‘Realise Your Dream’ and Ian Potter Cultural Trust travel grants. Given your success rate, what advice can you creative types, like yourself, about the secret world of grants?

Oh, don’t jinx me! I don’t know if there are any big secrets I can divulge. I guess with my successful applications (and I assure you there have been many unsuccessful ones) it’s been mainly due to applying for the right grant at the right time of my career. If you’ve arrived at a certain point in your career development where you truly feel like some financial assistance is what’s needed to propel you to the next level, then it’s a matter of articulating this clearly to the funding body you’re applying to, and demonstrating how their assistance can greatly contribute to your future development. The more you apply for, the better you get at articulating what you’re about and what you want to get out of what you’re doing. I think the process of applying for grants is valuable in itself, as it really forces you to think about your work and the direction you want to take it.

Individually handcarved and painted jewellery pieces by Natalia Milosz-Piekarska, inspired by food.

How would you best describe your own style of jewellery design?

Eclectic, whimsical, curious and spirited. It’s usually colourful, a little bit peculiar, playful and maybe just a touch mysterious. I like to think my work triggers a sense of curiosity, humour and magic. I like the idea that people find themselves drawn to my work and develop some kind of unexplainable bond with it, as though it was a mysterious treasure of some kind.

Love these painterly design drawings by Natalia, inspired by tasty Japanese cuisine!

You’ve exhibited your work everywhere from local Australian contemporary jewellery matriarchs including Pieces of Eight, e.g.etal and Metalab to galleries abroad in Auckland, Munich and San Francisco. Do you have any advice for emerging contemporary jewellers looking to make, exhibit and sell their work in Australia?

I think one of the most important things you can do as an emerging jeweller, or any kind of artist/designer for that matter, is to be active within the creative community around you. There are a lot of great projects, facilities and opportunities out there for creatives to get involved in, and they’re generally not hard to find and be a part of. It’s a great way to build networks, have your work seen and help you develop the knowledge, contacts and know-how needed to propel you to the next level within your practice.

Can you tell us a little about your current Carnival Collection made exclusively for e.g.etal, and give us a little insight into the inner workings of Natalia M.P? From concept to finished product, what processes do you employ when beginning a new collection?

The Carnival Collection is the beginning of a new body of work I started developing since returning home from the UK late last year. It has taken me a bit of time to get back into the swing of things, so I started doing little abstract drawings to help tease out some ideas. These drawings ended pinned up next to my workbench, and after starring at them daily I finally decided to try and make a piece of jewellery loosely based on one. It turned out to be quite a sweet little piece, so naturally I kept going!

I don’t have one particular way of working, I can be quite chaotic and spontaneous. I have a strong conceptual side to my work that I always rely on, but at the end of the day I love working with colour and materials, and often let them tell the story. Sometimes an idea will evolve from a drawing, other times I’ll just sit down and start playing with a bit of wax or a piece of timber, and a shape I like will start to take hold sooner or later.

New Earrings by Natalia Milosz-Piekarska for E.g.etal

Which Australian designers, artists or creative people are you loving right now?

I love the work of Melbourne-based jeweller/object maker Nicholas Bastin. His recent show at Craft Victoria was a knock out! I’m still dreaming about owning some of the pieces from that show. Australian born, Europe-based Lucy McRae is also making some major waves with her various projects. I’m really impressed with the scale and breadth of her work.

Recently if I’ve been in need of a little boost of inspiration and wonderment, a walk around the Living Water: Contemporary Art of the Far Western Dessert exhibition has really hit the spot. It’s at the Ian Potter Gallery until the end of the year and showcases some of the most stunning contemporary Indigenous Australian paintings I have ever seen. Finally the industrious and talented crew at the newly established NorthCity4 in Brunswick, Melbourne are high on my radar. This fabulous group, comprised of prominent and successful jewellers and creative’s in their own right, has launched a fantastic studio-based initiative offering workspaces, workshops, seminars and more to the jewellery and wider creative community.

Can you list for us 5 resources across any media (ie specific websites, magazines, blogs or books) you turn when in need of a bolt of creative inspiration when beginning a new piece or collection?

Mr Kitly has a beautifully kept Tumblr, as does Confetti System, both which I have become slightly obsessed with.  Chicago-based artist Essimar does beautiful things with paper and other bits and bobs. Patternity is great if I just want to stare at an avalanche of awesome imagery. I must also admit that I am a serial mag flicker, I’ve always got random magazines (both trashy and high brow) on the go. Currently I have an issue of Apartamento on my bedside table that is feeding me loads of inspiration.

What does a typical day day at work involve for you?

I’ll usually go through all my emails at home over a pot of coffee and breakfast, then I’ll make my way over to the studio in the Nicholas Building. With any luck by the time I arrive some of my studio buddies will waiting for me, so we can dabble in a little procrastinatory chit chat before finally nutting down and starting work for the day. I’ll then have a good long look at the mess on my bench and get down to whatever business needs attending to, which usually includes a combination of finishing off a piece from the day before, starting something new or wading through masses of paperwork and bookkeeping.

Lunch is a bit of a ritual for me and my studio buddy Karla Way, who I’ve shared a studio with since we both studied together. If we’re both in on the same day we’ll head out to get something from down the road, come back up to the studio and eat together, while musing over life and work and all the bits in between. Then it’s back to the bench or out running errands to and from metal casters, gem dealers, stockists, art supplies shops and the post office. Each day varies, but I truly love going to work. I love my studio and the people I share it with.

Natalia’s workspace in The Nicholas Building, Melbourne.  Photo – Lucy Feagins

What would be your dream creative project?

There’s no one dream project to be honest. I just aim to keep things diverse, challenging and exciting. I’m open to any number of things that come my way. At the moment I’m currently working with a contemporary dancer for an upcoming group exhibition, and through this process have found that I would love to explore more collaborative work with other creatives in the future. I also love to travel, so any opportunities that would allow me to marry my work with travel are high up on the ‘dream big’ list!

What are you looking forward to?

Lunch! But really, in the more long term I have a few exciting projects brewing (stay tuned!). Otherwise I’m pretty easily pleased. I look forward to lazy weekends, a good meal with good friends, and new travel adventures.

The One‘ – beautiful engagement rings by Natalia for Pieces of Eight

Melbourne Questions

Your favourite Melbourne neighbourhood and why?

Uh oh, that’s tricky. I’ve just recently moved north side after spending my entire life south side, so my loyalties are divided. It’s not really a Melbourne neighbourhood, but I do love the Mornington Peninsula. My mum and her partner have a house up there, so it’s accidentally become the perfect getaway any time of year.

Your favourite fossicking spots in Melbourne for jewellery supplies/tools of your trade?

I have a few suppliers that I go to for all the technical stuff, but nothing beats a good old rummage through Camberwell Market, Chapel Street Bazaar, Savers, hobby shops and good old Arthur Daley’s on Swanston Street, the later which supplies us with our never ending bowl of sugary treats in the studio.

Natalia’s trusty toolkit.  Photo – Lucy Feagins

What and where was the last great meal you ate in Melbourne?

I had a pretty epic breakfast at St Edmonds just off Greville Street the other day. Also I can’t go past a  veggie baguette from Waffle On on Degraves Street – it’s so big it will keep you going until dinner time! And I have to say, nothing beats a home cooked Sunday roast chicken like the one I had at my buddy’s house last weekend.

Where would we find you on a typical Saturday morning?

If all is well I might go for a morning run, mainly to justify the lazy coffee, newspaper and pastry ritual that follows. Then it’s anyone’s game.

Melbourne’s best kept secret?

Well, it’s not really Melbourne CBD, and it’s not really a secret, but there is a little local food store in Red Hill that has the most mouthwatering array of local produce including cheese, meats, preserves, wines, beers, the world’s (unofficial) best apple juice etc. – you name it, it has it! It seriously is that overwhelming that it’s been known to induce mild panic attacks caused by unadulterated happiness.

Edition X

Favourite picks from Edition X ! – 1) Facet pendant by Hannah Carlyle, 2) Double coil ended knot necklace by Hamish Munro, 3) Sketch earrings by Peta Kruger, 4) Multicoloured resin bangles by Hannah Carlyle and 5) Passion earrings by Nadine Treister.

Melbourne jeweller / gallerist / retailer Melanie Katsalidis is one hell of an overachiever. After successfully re-launching her jewellery / object gallery Pieces of Eight in the CBD earlier this year, she already has a new retail concept to share – say hello to Edition X!

Edition X opened just last week, and is located in the former home of Pieces of Eight – a fantastic deco warehouse-style building in Fitzroy North.  The range primarily consists of jewellery and handcrafted objects, with one key point of difference – everything here has been created in a limited edition, specifically for Edition X.  So you can be sure you won’t spot any of the Edition X collection anywhere else!  AMAZINGLY, however, the range has also been thoughtfully curated with pricepoint in mind – the vast majority of work is under $300 which is incredible value for unique, handcrafted work by some of Melbourne’s best known creatives.

Edition X also deserves a pat on the back for their seriously excellent website.  It is awesome.  The entire range is photographed beautifully and everything can be bought online.  ALL online shops should look this hot.

Edition X store interior and current featured exhibition of work by Melbourne makers Golden Ink.  Photos – Ben Glezer

Edition X – photo by Ben Glezer

Megan Perkins

Vitreous enamel jewellery by Tasmanian jeweller Megan Perkins

What is it with Tasmania at the minute!?  So much goodness coming from the Island state… I can’t keep up with it!   I think MONA‘s David Walsh must have spiked the water down there with some kind of Willy Wonka-esque creativity-enhancing elixir.  I wouldn’t put it past him.

Megan Perkins is a Tassie-based jeweller who makes incredible enamel statement pieces. Her latest range features geometric shapes inspired by the hexagonal lattice of honeycomb! I particularly love Megan’s inspired colour palette – buzzing reds and egg-yolk yellows meet muted pastels and greys… with a little peppermint green thrown in for good measure!  Megan promises ‘You won’t see anyone else wandering around with your necklace, as no two pieces are the same’.

Megan has a few stockists listed on her website here.  Her work can also be found at ‘Follow‘ (the Finders Keepers shop) in Sydney.  Megan will also be at the Bowerbird Bazaar design market in Adelaide later this month (it’s on from the 28th-30th October).

Not Tuesday

Handmade bead necklaces by Rachel Wightman of Not Tuesday

Sydney-based Rachel Wightman is the designer behind these super cute handmade necklaces, made from simple polymer clay (ie, Fimo!) beads.  Rachel worked as an interiors stylist in magazine-land for over 10 years before becoming a mum 2 years ago, and finding a new creative outlet.  A failed experiment with resin led Rachel to polymer clay, and it wasn’t long before she was hooked!   I love the unexpected colour combinations and chunky organic forms – very Wilma Flintstone.  Or perhaps more Betty Rubble?

Rachel launched ‘Not Tuesday‘ in May this year, and sells her sweet designs on Etsy and in a few retail stores listed here.

Handmade bead necklaces by  Not Tuesday

Nicholas Building Open Studios 2011

The Nicholas Building in Melbourne opens it’s doors this Thursday and Friday for the annual Open Studios event!

As if there wasn’t ENOUGH going on in Melbourne this week with the immense State of Design festival well underway… the much-loved Nicholas Building opens it’s doors this Thursday and Friday for their annual Open Studios event!

This unique event offers visitors a rare behind the scenes peek at the work spaces of the many local artists, designers, makers and creative businesses who inhabit one of Melbourne’s most iconic buildings.  Over 40 creatives are participating this year – including artist Nicholas Jones, jewellers Vikki Kassioras, Amina McPhee and Rhiannon Smith, designer / maker Matt Thomson of Mattt Bags, and painter / printmaker Clare Whitney.

Held over two evenings, the Open Studios event really is the perfect mid-winter after work activity (combined of course with another favourite local past time – EATING OUT.  Mmmm Movida Next Door,  Izakaya Den or perhaps Cumulus if you’re feeling really posh).

You can check out the full list of participating studios on the Nicholas Building Blog!  It really is such a wonderful and uplifting showcase of the incredible creative talent in this town, and big congrats must go to Vikki Kassioras who does a stellar job of organising the event every year.  Just another wonderful reminder of Melbourne’s buzzing creative community!

Nicholas Building Open Studios 2011
Thursday 28th July and Friday 29th July, 4.00pm – 9.00pm both days
37 Swanston st, Melbourne

(Corner Flinders Lane and Swanston st. lift access via Cathedral Arcade)

ps. Sydneysiders must be feeling awfully left out this week with all these Melbourne happenings… I do apologise… Don’t fret, Sydney Design is just around the corner!

Artwork by a few of this years’ Nicholas Building Open Studios participants – printmaker Clare Whitney, jewellery by Vikki Kassioras, and the dashing  Nicholas Jones makes an appearance here TWICE in TWO DAYS.  Shocking favouritism.

The Nicholas Building in better seasonal conditions.  I guarantee no blue skies or leaves on trees this week!

Melbourne Home – Mark Boldiston aka Lord Coconut!

The incredible rooftop garden of Mark Boldiston in Flinders Lane, Melbourne CBD.  Outdoor lamp sourced from Stockroom in Kyneton.

More fabulous rooftop

View across the lane to the Nicholas Building and Federation Square beyond

I very rarely (if ever) begin a home tour with shots of the garden.  Usually a bit of greenery / foliage pops up at the very end of the post, if at all.  But I’m sure you’ll agree that in this case, the incredible rooftop oasis attached to this amazing Flinders Lane apartment really steals the show!

Mark Boldiston (also known as ‘Lord Coconut‘ for reasons I will explain momentarily) lives in this fabulous 3-bedroom city pad with his partner Tamara.  The pair have been here for 5 years, and other than painting and wallpapering, the apartment is in original condition – with the exception of the rooftop, which was landscaped and overhauled in late 2009 (‘thanks Greenbits & Fitzroy Nursery‘ says Mark!)

Mark has quirky creative eye, and had filled his home with many eclectic finds.  (Lucky Tamara gives him free reign in this department!).  When asked if he has any favourite acquisitions, it’s not surprising he struggles to narrow down the list!  The John Bracks print in main bedroom is a favourite – a 40th birthday present from family & friends.   The Ghostpatrol originals in the second bedroom also rate a mention – Mark is a keen supporter of local artists and designers, and commissioned these when Ghostpatrol was just starting out.  Then there’s the recycled cardboard sideboard/tv stand by local architect /designer Toby Horrocks of Freefold Furniture.  AND the outdoor lamp on the rooftop from Stockroom in Kyneton – ‘a birthday present from my lovely wife’ says Mark.

But really, the most incredible thing about this home is that it truly is an oasis in the middle of the city – especially with that AMAZING rooftop.  You can peer into the windows of the Nicholas building, and even see Federation Square from here!  And whilst CBD living isn’t for everyone, Mark makes a strong case for city living – when asked why he loves living in the CBD, he’s full of enthusiasm! ‘We’re in the middle of the city action when you walk out the front door, but far enough removed from the hustle and bustle when we take the elevator up to our home.  We’re less than five minutes from work (no commute!!!!!!). Everything is on our doorstep – food, fashion, theatre, music, life with some of the biggest backyards in the world a short stroll away (Royal Botanic Gardens)’.

I’m sold.  But only if I can have your apartment Mark!

AND NOW a little note about Lord Coconut.  Lord Coconut is Mark’s friendly alter-ego – purveyor of stunning handcrafted jewellery for the stylish Melbourne gentleman!  Mark is SUPER passionate about his new shop, which just opened last week!  As with all the best finds in the CBD, Lord Coconut is secreted away from street view… it’s in Carlow House on Flinders Lane (just a skip and a jump from Mark’s apartment).  Lord Coconut is well worth a look for unique handcrafted jewellery, cufflinks and objets d’art for the discerning man in your life – many brilliant local designers are represented.   I will dedicate a proper post to the store at some point soon, but in the meantime DO CHECK IT OUT online and in person! (Have included a couple of sneaky pics of the shop at the bottom of this post!)

Lord Coconut
Suite 3, Level 4
Carlow House
289 Flinders Lane
Melbourne 3000

Opening Hours
Mon -  by appointment
Tues to Friday – 11.00am – 6.00pm
Sat – 11.00am – 3.00pm
Sun – by appointment

CLICK HERE for the full tour and many more pics!

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